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The rules to follow and the products best-suited to you—even if you have oily skin
Facial oils have an undeserved reputation for being a one-way ticket to clogged pores and unwanted shine. The truth is that knowing how to use face oils and picking the right one can end up balancing oil production, calm irritation and even help with breakouts. Some blends are packed with soothing ingredients like allantoin and bisabolol, others can brighten like your favourite vitamin C serum or keep things clear with some tea tree oil in the mix.
Facial oils are ultra-nourishing and act as a hybrid emollient (softening) and occlusive (sealing) step in your, usually nighttime, skincare routine. Dr Rabia Malik, founder of skincare brand Skin W1 explains how one product can do both. “Oils are generally made up of large molecules that are occlusive. They seal moisture into the outermost layer of the skin and also act as an emollient, keeping skin soft and smooth.”
Think of it as a similar process to slugging – the skincare method of layering “thinner” skincare like hyaluronic acid beneath a heavier more occlusive product on top. The product beneath will work on softening and hydrating while the heavier one maintains a barrier between your skin and skincare products and the world outside. Somehow, a face oil does both of these things.
No. Face oils can be used all year round, it just comes down to (again) knowing how to use face oils and the right formula. Even in spring, constant fluctuations in temperature often lead to increased dryness. “Dry environments strip moisture from the skin, making it appear less luminous and dehydrated,” shares Dr Jason Thomson, head of medical at Skin + Me. Adding a facial oil to your routine will not only lock in much-needed moisture for longer, but it can also help rejuvenate the skin barrier. If dryness is one of your key concerns, think about incorporating humectant ingredients into your routine, as well as facial oil. Humectants are ingredients that pull water towards them (hyaluronic acid, glycerin and urea, for example) and help deliver that hydration deeper into the skin.
An oil and a moisturiser play different roles in your skincare routine. When paired correctly, though, they can support each other well. While moisturisers and serums deliver hydration and active ingredients into the skin, oils provide nourishment and conditioning. It’s inadvisable to swap one for the other; instead, especially if you suffer from very dry skin, combine an oil with an ultra-rich moisturiser. “Depending on the formulation, a drop of certain oils can be added to existing serums and moisturisers for a hydration boost,” says Malik. “Just mix them together in the palm of your hand before applying.”
“Facial oils can be used as and when required, and are easy to incorporate into most skincare routines,” says Malik. “In general, face oil should be applied as the last step in a skincare routine at night (after serum and/or moisturiser if they are being used), but before sunscreen and make-up in the morning.”
“Oils can be feared by those with combination and oily complexions,” explains Sarah Brown, founder of skincare brand Pai. “As counterintuitive as it might seem, specific oils can actually work well for this skin type, playing a rebalancing role, especially after the use of products that strip away natural sebum (such as foaming cleansers).” (More on which face oils are best for oily skin later.)
If you do have an oily skin type and are just starting out with face oils, though, dermatologist Dr Sharon Wong suggests proceeding with caution. “As you would with any new skincare product, start slowly,” she says, recommending taking a few drops and applying them once or twice a week to begin with. This will help you figure out the frequency and volume of face oil that your skin can tolerate.
Face oils work brilliantly when used in conjunction with facial massage techniques. The physical act of massaging them onto the skin’s surface also helps to increase blood circulation and boost lymphatic drainage. Use upward and outward motions when applying, either with your fingers or with tools such as a gua sha or jade roller.
If you don’t enjoy facial massage, popping it straight on is an option too. Brown uses a few drops of face oil every evening after cleansing. “It’s best applied after using a face mist. It makes for a more even application, and has the added benefit of trapping in extra moisture.” Whatever your preference, it’s best to keep it as the last step in any routine. Because of its occlusive nature, it’s very difficult for anything applied afterwards to permeate through.
Dry
“Look for face oils that contain a greater percentage of essential fatty acids and vitamin E,” says Dr Wong. Since dry skin types tend to suffer skin barrier issues, omegas, fatty acids and ceramides can help fortify it and prevent water loss. Other great ingredients to look out for include squalane, marula, rose, grapeseed and jojoba oils.